What a difference a few degrees make. Milan - five degrees Celsius hotter than Paris - was obsessed with eco threats, global water shortages and men wearing shorts, in Nicholas Sarkozy's new Paris its all about Officer Poets.
The new French president began his opening day visiting a forgotten Bois de Boulogne shrine to young Parisians shot in the Liberation. In the opening day of the first fashion season of his presidency, Jean Paul Gaultier sent out Sergeant Peter Chic, hot Japanese label Number Nine had Prussian officer bohemians march in a cloisters and Yohji Yamamoto's models were returning warrior gentleman.
People often complain that Yamamoto's shows are repetitive, too much black, too much austerity, but the current mood seems to align with his zeitgeist.
Every second designer now seems to be doing dropped crotch pants, but most of them seem pastiches. Yohji's multi-pocket Afghan meets Alleghany mineworker trous look like works of art - lumpy Anselm Kiefer for the legs, twisted Frank Gehry for the thighs.
Paired with Edwardian frock coats of military drab olive it made for an alternative Barry Lyndon universe. Navy blue jackets with the name Yohji as an insignia, spelt backwards, and tied at the knee breeches added to the Edwardian moment.
Men's fashion might me all about the surface, but never have designers attempted so much to change the dictatorship of suits and jeans. Collectively, they all seem to be seeing a new age of slower travel and gentlemanly contemplation. One where exhausted resources mean less frenzy and one where men are no longer slaves to Blackberrys and deadlines, but actually find the time for intelligent introspection.
No wonder Yamamoto ended his show with eight young Edwardian gents posing as for a end of term photo. Thought is chic again.
ADS SPACE HERE
KODE PPC ANDA
Subscribe to:
Post Comments
(Atom)
Post a Comment