ON the second week of international fashion shows, international fashion show parties and resulting international fashion show mornings after, it's ironically reassuring that we can always rely on John Galliano to inject an element of disquiet into the proceedings to put us firmly back on the edge of our seats. Following a frantic dash through notoriously bad Paris traffic to the Église Saint-Sauveur in out-of-town Issy Les Moulineaux, the fashion pack were just settling into their seats yesterday as a model in combat trousers and flip-flops, bare-chested with a scarf and cap obscuring his face, took to the catwalk. It was the opening to the most provocative show we've seen yet; models wore neon camouflage prints, loose or padded jackets and combat-style vests with pockets and straps strung over bare chests. Exposed skin was daubed with army-style camouflage paint; faces were obscured with netting, helmets, foliage, traditional Middle-Eastern headdresses and fake beards. And Galliano wasn't the only designer offering up a challenge. Yohji Yamamoto's military-style tailoring was printed with an eagle motif to represent freedom, while at Number (N)ine, a relaxed, street-urchin style silhouette was tempered with oversized crucifixes and Rosaries. Rebel Jean Paul Gaultier was relatively tame in comparison, showing sexy spacemen in metallic silver jackets and his trademark skirts. Today sees the turn of Junya Watanbe, Kris Van Assche, Comme des Garcons and Louis Vuitton on the runways - visit VOGUE.COM tomorrow to see all the latest looks. (june 29 2007, AM)
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