Italian designers seem to be on a mission to get guys to dress up.
Gone from the current round of menswear for the summer 2008 are the baggy, low-waisted jeans, tank tops, shorts and running shoes, which dominated the fashion scene for a number of seasons. The new look is all about jackets and ties, tailored trousers and formal footwear.
"Today's generation of young men wants to look good," Valentino said backstage after his show yesterday, which featured impeccably, slightly retro dressed youths.
"Good clothes help a man feel sure of himself," Valentino said.
The latest Valentino collection includes couture cut suits, butterfly-printed nylon blousons, cashmere knit cardigans and dinner jackets in cotton pique. A silk kerchief around the neck at times replaces a tie, and loafers are worn without socks. The colour palette is classic, except for a few strokes of peach and purple.
Earlier yesterday, the fun-loving Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten took the fashion crowd for a tour of Formula 1 fashion. But despite the mechanics' jumpsuits, drivers' helmets and caps and the bomber jackets, the show had a top-drawer feel to it. Elegance is a new fashion trick for the designing pair, Dsquared2, who just a year ago presented jeans so low waisted the models had to hold them up.
Giorgio Armani, on the other hand, has always been at home with elegance.
His second line Emporio collection presented Sunday speaks of a man who likes his fashion but also his fun. Cardigans and blazers are interchangeable. Both have slim lapels and single buttoning and often come in iridescent fabrics, the latest summer fad.
Trousers tend to be tapered, with some styles reminiscent of riding pants. Pullovers have a cowl neckline or an off-one-shoulder style, and often replace the jacket.
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